Ned Goodwin tastes the Penfolds Collection 2020
Thursday, July 23, 2020 in News
Ned Goodwin tastes the Penfolds Collection 2020
Ahead of the 6 August release of the Penfolds Collection 2020, Ned Goodwin MW tastes and reviews the latest releases from Langton’s HQ. Explore our portfolio of Penfolds Wines.
Ned Goodwin MW is the consummate global Master of Wine. Throughout his illustrious career, he has traversed the vinous world, Duxing the Len Evans Tutorial, educating, judging and consulting in Paris, New York, China, Australia and, most notably, Japan. Indeed, he is one of the most recognisable faces of wine in his adopted second home of Japan (where he was the first Master of Wine).
A taster and author for the annually published ‘Halliday Wine Companion’, Ned is a figurehead of the local industry. Most recently, he has become the face of Langton’s live streaming event series, where he hosts an array of bright up-and-comers, experts, and wine legends. Spirited, informative, and downright entertaining conversation abounds.
And now, onto the wines!
Penfolds whites, often forgotten amidst the crucible of reds. They are fantastic! The Chardonnays, firmly of the mineral zeitgeist, confer a textural authority and fine integration of oak, freshness and impeccable fruit.
The reds are strongly demarcated by the inter-regionally sourced wines, marked by the proprietary singe of American oak and full-bodied gloss; juxtaposed against the detailed freshness of site-specificity (Magill) and / or less wood and oak-derived tannins (St. Henri). In all, highly impressive!
2020 Penfolds Bin 51 Riesling, Eden Valley
Pithy and saline, with a strident freshness. Scents of pink grapefruit, roses, lime, lemon oil, quince and apricot pith. Balletic, even. Nothing coarse. Long and broad. An effortless Riesling boasting a strong fealty to place. 94 points
2019 Penfolds Bin 311 Chardonnay
Serious Chardonnay here. A meld of cool climate Tasmania, Tumbarumba and Adelaide Hills fruit. The confluence of oak, notes of nougatine and creamed cashew at the core and a pungent mineral freshness, impeccable. Stone fruit allusions, all. Glossy and full across the mid-palate, with a burst of freshness towing it long. 93 points
2019 Penfolds Bin 19A Reserve Bin Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills
The gear has shifted into one of a nervous, mineral raciness. Aromas of lime curd and struck match. The oak, an adjunct, steering a juicy mid-drift into riffs on white peach and nectarine, offset by a gentle nougat to yoghurt creaminess. Lots of wine in little space. Meaning incredibly compact, kinetic and intense. There is much in store. 95 points
‘A delicious wine that strikes a pose for others to follow.’
2018 Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay
Tumbarumba and Tasmanian fruit in this vintage, with greater stretch across the palate than the 19A’s edgy carapace. Real vinosity, here! Broader aromas, too: orange blossom, citrus oil, cinnamon oak and a whiff of vanilla, toasted nut and brûlée at its centre. The finish, saline and taut, auguring well for a majestic life ahead. A delicious wine that strikes a pose for others to follow. 97 points
2019 Penfolds Bin 23 Pinot Noir
A mesh of Tasmania, Adelaide Hills and Henty fruit, this is quintessentially cool climate Oz: root spice, cola, bing cherry, cinnamon and orange zest curling their way across a gentle astringent waft of tannin. Some maritime acidity backing up the rear. 91 points
2018 Penfolds Bin 138 Shiraz Grenache Mataro, Barossa Valley
Nice to see Penfolds shifting away from the GSM branded moniker, indicating that certain varieties perform differently under vintage vagaries. All Barossa, as one would expect. A round, full-weighted mouthful of jubey dark fruit notes, kirsch, varnish, anise and herb-soused tannins, spicy, moreish and tidying up the melee into a nourishing whole. Restrained in the context. Cardamon, anise and clove. A delicious, sassy, easy-going red packed with Mediterranean flavour. 93 points
2018 Penfolds Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz
A highly savoury, mid-weighted red. A strong beam of minty red currant to clove aromas defining the fore, with a skein of white pepper grind acidity leading up the aft. Long, fresh and wholly appetising. A versatile wine at the table, with some tannic mettle at the finish proclaiming its ageability. 92 points
‘This is a reminder of what the country does well.’
2018 Penfolds Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon
‘18 is a warm, concentrated year of low yields and pure fruit. Bin 407 is a confluence of judiciously chosen material from across South Australia’s premium regions. Very traditional, in an Australian sense. Blue gum, black currant, iodine, pastille, black olive and sage. The tannins, a herbal potpourri, unfold across the palate. The fruit, expanding in sweetness, sap and vinosity, flows long. This is a reminder of what the country does well. 93 points
2018 Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz
An historic site of old vine material melded to American oak. A paean to a traditional Australian approach that remains a paradigm of inspiration. Glossy opaque. Black cherry, plum, charcuterie, baking spice, anise, black olive and a curl of creamy coconut-vanillin. Unashamedly rich and heady, in the vein of fine examples of yore. This wine has an attractive build, growing in stature with each sip and a bit of air. Expansive, palate-staining and dutifully long. Compellingly concentrated and intense. 94 points
2018 Penfolds Bin 150 Marananga Shiraz, Barossa Valley
A more recent addition to the Penfolds armoury, this was matured in both American and French wood, showcasing Barossa’s more floral and flamboyant side. Still, unashamedly full-bodied. Think lilac, blueberry, mulberry, cinnamon and star anise. Sumptuous. Exotic. The tannins, firm and an ample forebear to a bright future. 94 points
‘This will make exceptional old bones.’
2018 Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz
Often called the ‘baby Grange’, this full-weighted wine boasts all the extract, oomph and Penfolds’ attention to detail: glossy colour, impeccably ripe fruit across premium SA zones, generous American oak cladding and clear capacity to age. Meanwhile, the rich accents of South Australia and the quintessential Cabernet / Shiraz blend of mettle and generosity are on full show: black currant, pastille, anise and hedgerow. This will make exceptional old bones. 96 points
2017 Penfolds St Henri Shiraz
I always love this wine. The breadth of larger format neutral French wood allows a vinous spread of fruit across the palate without the oak impingement. An explosion of blue to blackberry, mulberry, tapenade, Asian five-spice and smoked meats. This is a mellifluous expression of fruit over oak, making it a winning wine among those, perhaps, that often steer toward European expressions. 96 points
‘Mellifluous. Long. Beautifully detailed. Joyous!’
2018 Penfolds Magill Estate Shiraz
A huge step away from everything prior. The emphasis here is on a svelte elegance, with aromas of Turkish delight, salami, cardamon and violet florals, all setting a distinctive tone. This is a joy to whiff. Nothing heavy or overarching in terms of power or force. Mellifluous. Long. Beautifully detailed. Joyous! The tannins, fine-boned and grape-derived, are ferrous and of pixelated detail. They pull the saliva out and make one reach for another glass. A wonderful wine from a single site. The tannins, the defining totem. 97 points
‘Among the uber Australian expressions.’
2018 Penfolds Bin 169 Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra
Black currant, soy, bouillon, pastille, char and gumtree kick off proceedings. The tannins, bullet proof and firm, with a herbal sousing. Oak plays a major role: caressing, firming up and chaperoning the fruit into a procession through time. A long one, I imagine. Among the uber Australian expressions. 95 points
2018 Penfolds Bin 798 RWT Shiraz, Barossa Valley
All Barossa fruit, cited and sourced for its opulence as an overriding extension of the Penfolds style. Florals meld with the sort of dark, creamy and concentrated fruit that stains every nook and cranny of the palate. Blueberry, mulberry and vanilla pie. Unashamedly full-bodied. A power house! 96 points
2018 Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon
A benchmark meld of prime SA regional sources, from Barossa, McLaren Vale and Coonawarra. Boysenberry tart. Violet. Bouquet Garni and tomato leaf meander across a pliant expanse of brooding tannin, as much American oak-derived as grape. This is an impressive build of proprietary style and choice Cabernet sourcing. 96 points
2016 Penfolds Bin 95 South Australian Shiraz
A deep vivid crimson, verging on opaque. Glossy, to be sure, with the telltale carapace of vanillin American oak saturated with dark fruit allusions from bing cherry and satsuma plum. Yet the wine is lifted and floral, brimming with violet scents giving a sense of lightness despite the sheer heft and power. Asian five-spice, lacquer and Hoisin sauce, too, with the oak reverberating across the back end as mocha, bitter chocolate and coffee grind. A riff on nori-umami warms the mid-drift. The meld of fruit and structural elements, seamless. The finish, long. Very. As always, this will make exceptional old bones.97 points