New Barolo from Roberto Voerzio
Friday, January 29, 2021 in Report
New Barolo from Roberto Voerzio
It is with great pride and pleasure that I present the latest addition to the Langton’s portfolio, Azienda Agricola Roberto Voerzio. From La Morra in Barolo, Roberto Voerzio is one of the true superstars of the region and a person who will do what it takes to drive himself and the region forward. Shop Roberto Voerzio now.
Founded in 1986, the winery based in La Morra quickly rose to fame as the young Roberto, challenged some of the old draconian rules of winemaking that were blanketing the region. Roberto invested in the newest equipment and employed a very rigorous regime of green harvesting including; cutting bunches in half and using new French barriques (225 litres) together with larger botti (traditional Italian that range from 1000 litres to more than 20000 litres) if that was what the wine required. Roberto sees a clear line between concentration of flavours and quality of wine.
When I visited the winery in late 2019 (a very different world), it was a very humble, joyous and passionate Roberto that showed me around. He said to me, ‘it’s always nice welcoming new guests who take interest in my family business.’ Although he is very successful, it is utterly refreshing to see such unfeigned gratitude in our industry.
Roberto’s home and work are centred around the famed village of La Morra on the western side of the region. La Morra is the largest village in terms of acreage of vines but also famed for its elegant, silky and perfumed wines. La Morra is the home of the most famed Crus such as Cerequio, Brunate, La Serra, Rocche dell’Annunziata and Fossatti. It is no surprise that all these Crus are represented in Roberto’s portfolio of wines.
‘...all work in the vineyard is organic.’
Although not certified, all work in the vineyard is organic. Roberto will do a first green harvest in July where close to 50% of the fruit is dropped, leaving about five clusters on each vine. In August, these remaining clusters will be cut in half (about 500g per cluster) for a final concentration of flavours heading into harvest. Once ripe and ready to be harvested, all fruit is picked by hand and all wines (except for the stainless steel only Dolcetto) are fermented on natural yeasts in stainless steel tanks before being matured in a combination of French barrels and larger Slavonian botti.
I usually like to present this range of wines in two parts. There’s the first set of wines with the red-fruited Priavino Dolcetto, the vibrant and juicy Il Cerretto Barbera, and the ethereal and long-living Disanfrancesco Langhe Nebbiolo (one of the prime examples of Langhe Nebbiolo). Then there’s the second set, the single Cru Baroli, and arguably the best Barbera in the region, Pozzo dell’Annunziata, only sold in Magnum as Roberto wants to extend its ageing potential. The single Cru Barolo wines need no introduction and are hands down some of the greatest wines of Italy. Depending on style, preference and vintage, it’s hard to choose a favourite.
The exciting news this year is that Roberto has released an additional Barolo. The Barolo del Commune di La Morra is a wine made from grapes grown in the La Serra, Fossati, Case Nere and Boiolo vineyards. Roberto will leave each cluster weighing around 1kg instead of the 500g clusters used for the Cru Baroli. This is a stellar wine and a very good introduction to the range and philosophy of Roberto Voerzio.
‘...some of the very best wines in the world.’
With the addition of the Barolo del Commune di La Morra, the set is complete. There are wines for any style, preference and occasion. And one thing that has always impressed me is their drinkability. They are vibrant, delicious, ethereal, soulful and just utterly delicious and some of the very best wines in the world.
‘Roberto is a man who elegantly but determinedly pushed his belief, philosophy and the region forward...’
Roberto is a man who elegantly but determinedly pushed his belief, philosophy and the region forward and should be celebrated for his achievements as well as his wine. They are some of the most eternal and long-lived in Barolo and I have visited many private cellars over the years where these wines have taken the premium spot in the owners’ collections. Make sure you add some to your collection as well.