The 2021 Pavie-Decesse is clearly still coming together. Powerful and driving on the palate, Pavie-Decesse shows its trademark energy and virile intensity. Red/purplish fruit, gravel, spice, mocha and iron lend an air of distinction. The malos here are on the later side vis-a-vis the other properties in the range, so the wine comes across as a bit raw in this tasting. Even so, there is good mid-palate density and plenty of character. All the 2021 needs is time to come together.
(91-94) points, Vinous (May 2022)
A tight and focused red with blackberry, black-olive and white-pepper character. It’s medium-to full-bodied with a racy structure and fine yet slightly chewy tannins. Energetic.
(92-93) points, JamesSuckling.com (May 2022)
Medium-deep crimson. Fresh, blackberry, blackcurrant with aniseed notes. Inky textured and plushly concentrated with fresh blackberry, cedar notes and sinewy tannins. Sappy chewy firm finish. 88% merlot, 12% cabernet franc. 80% new and 20% one-year-old French oak. 14% alc
(92-93) points, The Vintage Journal (May 2022)
St.-Émilion is the star of Bordeaux’s Right Bank, north of the Dordogne River. The rich red wines produced in St.-Émilion, based on Merlot and Cabernet Franc, are less tannic and generally more fruit-driven in flavour than the Cabernet-based wines of Left Bank. Merlot thrives on the plateaus high above the Dordogne, where the soil is filled with sand and clay, a perfect medium for creating opulent, fruit-forward wines. With a typically savoury character, St.-Émilion wines are sometimes called the “Burgundies of Bordeaux.” These refined reds, with loads of finesse, are elegant companions to beef, chicken, pork and duck.
The wines of St.-Émilion were not included in the famous 1855 classification of Bordeaux, which ranked wines of the Left Bank. In 1955, St.-Émilion published its own classification, based on soil analysis, wine quality and reputation of the properties. Unlike the 1855 classification, St.-Emilion’s system requires properties to continuously prove themselves. The list is revised regularly, most recently in 2012. There are two tiers within the classification, Premier Grand Cru Classé and Grand Cru Classé. There are currently just 18 Premier Grand Cru properties and 64 Grand Cru Classé properties.
The St.-Émilion appellation is home to hundreds of individual producers, enhancing the variety of wines made there. Many of the properties remain small, family-run enterprises, unlike the large châteaux of the Left Bank. The area is also the base of France’s controversial micro-châteaux or garagiste wine movement; these innovative winemakers operate outside the traditional classification system, making very high quality (and very expensive) highly extracted wines.