Full golden colour. Lots of struck match, bacon, and spicy oak, wheat germ, aniseed, tangerine and peel. Brassy golden fruit – sort of red apple, peach and mixed citrus. And SO intense, it’s almost painful to drink (at least as at now). Acidity is very firm running hard through a gently viscous glossiness. Flinty texture and chalky grip is on offer too. Long spicy finish of browned butter and toasted lime. It does not lack complexity, and it does not lack power, though there’s arguably too much of everything to make it pleasant drinking now. A few more years in bottle should see it purring.
95+ points, The Wine Front (May 2021)
Located in the foothills of the Victorian Alps, Beechworth is a small cool climate region with high continentality. The vineyards enjoy a large number of sunshine hours and are generally planted at altitudes of 400m. A variety of soil types are found with the two dominant ones being ancient sandstone gravel and clay and granitic loams over decomposed gravels and clays. While north or north-easterly slopes are generally favoured, the best sites are located away from higher altitude, cold-air drainage channels, with the risk of frost high in both spring and autumn. Restricted water availability means most vineyards are dry-grown. A region of small boutique producers, Beechworth is best known for premium Chardonnay, Shiraz and Pinot Noir, although plantings of Italian varieties including Sangiovese and Nebbiolo also show great promise.