Domaine Henri Magnien Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru Cuvée 4 Carac’Terres
This is a very interesting special cuvée which incorporates equal measures of the best fruit from four of the Magnien family’s Premier Cru Gevrey-Chambertin holdings—Lavaux St-Jacques, Estournelles St-Jacques, Les Cazetiers and Les Champeaux. The wine is made using 100% whole bunch and receives 100% new oak (more in the style of a Grand Cru). The barrel itself (and there is only one made in any given vintage) is made of 400-year-old Fontainebleau oak.
Domaine Henri Magnien is showing off the best of what they do best and sparing no expense in the making of it. Allocations are small, to say the least.
As the name suggests, the 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin 4 Carac’terrres 1er Cru is a bunch selection from the four Premier Crus, made with 100% whole bunches in a single barrel. The whole-bunch character comes through quite strongly on the nose, where attractive peppermint scents gradually evolve with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Quite sensual thanks to its velvety tannins, leading into a long finish. This is very seductive.
(91-93) points, Vinous (January 2020)
Charles Magnien takes 90kg of the best grapes from each of his four Gevrey-Chambertin 1ers Crus and vinifies them with their stems to make a single barrel of wine. The stems suggest a touch of volatility compared to the other wines but analysis does not bear this out. Wait and see how this settles down. The mouth is gorgeous, multi-textured and very persistent with some glossy cherry aromatics. No sign of anything volatile in the mouth. Fresh red fruit at the finish, alpine strawberry.
(90-93) points, Inside Burgundy (November 2019)
“For fifteen years the Emperor [Napoleon] constantly drank the same wine [Gevrey-Chambertin] , which he liked and which we believed was good for him."
Mémorial de Sainte-Hélène by The Count of Las Cases
Gevrey-Chambertin is the largest wine-producing village in the entire Côte d’Or with the wines typically deeper in colour, with more tannin structure and firmer in body than most red Burgundy. Thanks to the iron-rich clay soils the very best can develop into the richest, biggest and long-lived Pinot Noir - this of course depends on whether the vineyard is located on the steeper slopes or the flatter, richer soils.
Gevrey boasts an impressive nine Grands Crus, with the name of Chambertin retaining a regal omnipresence throughout its finest vineyard names. Chambertin-Clos de Bèze which has the right to sell its wines simply as ‘Chambertin’, and is also the only wine allowed to put the ‘Chambertin’ before (rather than after its own), is considered one of the greats. Quality-wise the next best is generally acknowledged to be Mazis-Chambertin with incredibly concentrated and fine wines, but a little less firm than Le Chambertin. The tiny Griottes-Chambertin, which owes its name to the grill-pan shape of the vineyard rather than the wine’s griotte (sour) cherry aroma, is lower down the slope and boasts a velvety texture and rich fruit reminiscent of Chambertin itself. Gevrey’s largest Grand Cru, Charmes-Chambertin is pure and seductive.
The wines of Gevrey-Chambertin are deeply colored. They have intense aromas of currants and other small red and black fruits, animal notes of musk and fur, and often a touch of licorice after some bottle aging. They are powerful, with balanced tannins, a soft mouthfeel and good acidity. These are generally robust wines.
While the Magnien family has been operating in Burgundy since the mid-1600s, Domaine Henri Magnien et Fils was established in 1987 by Henri for himself, his son François and his grandson Charles. After working side-by-side with his father, Charles took the reins in 2009 and is now considered to be in the vanguard of the young, energetic winemakers in the Gevrey-Chambertin and the Côte de Nuits.
Domaine Henri Magnien is a small family-owned and run estate of a mere six hectares of vineyard holdings. What they lack in hectarage they make up for in undoubted Gevrey-Chambertin quality. The Magnien family’s inexorable march to organic viticulture has been going for years with around 80% already complete. Charles, considered to be one of Burgundy’s rising stars, employs Selection Massale, or Massal Selection, to plant his more recent vineyards with cutting selections made from 70 to 100-year-old vines. These clonal selections are known as Pinot Magnien (the family has been around for a while) and are widely considered to be the best in the appellation. They are much sought-after and used by the likes of Jérôme Galeyrand.
The Domaine also has many of the very best vineyards, including Lavaux Saint-Jacques, Les Cazetiers and Ruchottes-Chambertin.