The Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a deep and vibrant ruby red with aromas of dried red fruits and dried wild herbs. The palate experience is intense with a complex weave of red fruit and spice, a little strawberry and aniseed jam. The palate doesn’t let up for a long time and it’s structural, with the acidity and tannins pointing to a long and steady future.
Made with 100% Sangiovese (selected from their oldest vines and only in the best years), the juice is allowed to macerate on skins for 30-35 days and fermented at a controlled temperature followed by spontaneous MLF (malolactic fermentation), both stages in cone-shaped Slavonian oak casks. The wine is then racked off into 10 to 25 hectolitre Slavonian oak casks for a period of around 40 months prior to being bottle-aged for at least 15 months.
The south-easterly exposure of the Montosoli vineyards—to the north of Montalcino—and the clay-rich soil together with meticulous work in the vineyards ensures that the vines have a healthy growing period and produce wines of elegance, structure and acidity.
The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is forward, with heady aromatics of tar, licorice, and sweet tobacco as well as underlying blackberry fruit and dried flowers. Ripe with a Mediterranean feel, the palate is generous and fruit-forward with black cherry, tea leaf, and dark-mineral earth. The tannins are muscular and ripe, though the wine is balanced in its powerful yet traditional structure. This is an exceptional wine that will be wonderful to watch in its evolution. Cellar and drink 2026-2042.
97 points, JebDunnuck.com (March 2021)
Exotic aromas of crushed cherries and berries with flowers, bark and some black mushrooms. It’s full-bodied and very deep with wonderful length and power. A very typical and well structured, top 2015. One of the best ever from here. Drink after 2025.
97 points, JamesSuckling.com (December 2020)
The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva offers rich darkness and lots of blackberry fruit and plum. The wine shows an accessible and open personality, putting all its beauty right out there for you to admire. Unlike the more mercurial and shape-shifting 2016 vintage, this expression from 2015 delivers frankness and naked beauty. The tannins are soft and ripe, and the wine is just raring to go, without delay, next to a hearty serving of Bistecca alla Fiorentina. This wine is aged in Slavonian oak casks for an extended 44 months, and 12,000 bottles (including large formats) will be released in January 2021.
95 points, Wine Advocate (December 2020)
The 2015 Capanna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva does an excellent job of marrying the ripeness of the year to their dark, alluring, yet traditional house style. Crushed cherries are offset by exotic savory spice, citrus rinds and sweet herbs. It’s deeply textural, enveloping all that it touches in silky waves of red and black fruit, with nervous acids contrasting its creamy persona, as grippy tannins form toward the close. Its heroic structure looms, yet it does so with an amazing lingering freshness as well. This formidable Brunello Riserva will pay dividends in your cellar. This was tasted over the course of two days with no sign of decline.
96 points, Eric Guido, Vinous (November 2020)
Balsamic aromas of camphor mingle with new leather, sunbaked earth and rose. Full bodied and enveloping, the palate offers grilled porcini, dried cherry and tobacco alongside compact, velvety tannins. Drink 2023–2030.
93 points, Wine Enthusiast (May 2021)
The Capanna farm, owned by the Cencioni family since 1957, is situated in the Montosoli area, to the north of Montalcino. It was founded by Giuseppe Cencioni and, helped by his sons Benito and Franco, it was one of the first farms of the modern period of Brunello. They started bottling their own wines in the 1960s and after Brunello di Montalcino was granted DOC status in 1966, Giuseppe was one of the 25 founders of the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino. Production, initially only a few thousand bottles, then increased when new vineyards were planted.
The estate is now run by Benito’s son, Patrizio, who is in turn joined by his considered and contemplative son, Amadeo. If ever there was a wine that spoke to the character of its maker, Capanna must be it! It’s obvious to see the deep knowledge and care that they both hold for this place and the work that their father and grandfathers have done before them. They both reside on the estate and you truly do feel the connection between man and land when you visit.