The numerals referencing the size of the different parcels, in this instance, a north-west facing cooler site. Extra brut, circa 3g/L. All Verzenay fruit. 80% pinot noir of which 22% is derived from a perpetual reserve, the remainder straight chardonnay. Perhaps the finer of the two. A spindle of saline chalkiness and beautifully positioned oak directs compelling length, jittery and tensile and saturated with dried straw and orchard fruits. Rapier-like, with effusive energy and an almost perfect stature that could, despite the pinot dominance, be mistaken for a top blanc de blanc. Superb Champagne new to these shores.

95 points, Ned Goodwin MW.