Bright medium-light yellow colour; smoky charcuterie, struck flint and toasted hazelnuts to sniff. The wine is intense, focused and very long on the palate. Piercing lemon/citrus flavours, fresh and balanced acidity driving it long and promising a big future if cellared, although it’s a great drink right now. An outstanding chardonnay.

Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay Tasmania 2023, www.therealreview.com

This gets down to business in no uncertain terms. It shows citrus and pineapple characters as flashes but its heart is all stonefruit, yellow apple, flint and smoked cedarwood. The effect is powerful, the persona is elegant. This is a wine of long lines and texture like satin. There’s a brine-and-tonic-like twist to the aftertaste but then every time I lifted the glass I saw or appreciated something new; it has more twists than Oliver. Basically, it’s a gorgeous release.

Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay Tasmania 2023, www.winefront.com.au

57/32/11% Tasmania/Tumbarumba/Adelaide Hills fruit. Matured 8 months in 55% new French oak barriques. The tension, endurance and sheer molecular detail of Yattarna propels it to the pinnacle of Australia’s pointy chardonnay pyramid, and 2019 follows confidently in the hallowed footsteps of the sublime 2018. This is a vintage that demands a great deal of time to unfurl. Tight, compact, focused and immensely determined, it leads out in its virile youth with the finest struck flint and gunpowder. A pinpoint singularity of white-fruit precision focuses a laser line of pure white acidity that projects from its core through a finish of astounding line, length and promise. Powder-fine, crystalline minerality surges long and strong. Another epic Yattarna. Vintage on vintage, has Yattarna now ascended to become Penfolds' greatest wine of all?

Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay 2019, www.winecompanion.com.au