For long an Australian icon, this has really lightened up its act. For the better. The sort of exotic perfume-lifted lilac floral-seldom seen across shiraz from such a warm zone. Pulpy and juicy in the mouth, rather than over-extracted and desiccated. A beautiful sash of oak, directing a cavalcade of clove, five spice and ample blue to dark fruit references along a skein of peppery acidity. Riveting complexity and the feeling of something far lighter than the ABV suggests. This is a thrilling wine. There are no two ways about it.

Yalumba The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz Barossa 2017.

Meshach looms large in the glass. It’s the Barossa Valley Shiraz’s signature as its creator, Grant Burge, intended. From vines 60+ years old, it holds court both colour-wise – deep, dark with twinkling red hues – and with a powerful presence that belies its age. Big perfume of cigar box, chocolate, spice, plum pudding, black fruits, earth and leather. It’s generous and complex and, yes, carries the bold, warm-hearted Barossa shiraz stamp. It’s packed with flavour that lingers long. Meshach lives up to many drinkers’ expectations of what a traditional Barossa Shiraz should be, and that includes an ability to age. Firm tannins are the not so quiet force behind this wine with the clear intention of providing the framework for that extended ageing. It’s still but a pup and you can’t say that about too many nine-year-old Australian Shiraz.

Grant Burge Meshach Shiraz, Barossa 2014.

A seamless blend of shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot; each variety laying down their individual characteristics for the good of the great whole. There is excellent length of flavour here, with plummy merlot flesh, spice, sage and density from the shiraz, gently flecked blackberry tones from the cabernet and the liminal leafy edge of the franc. A bright, minerally cadence and long, black-fruited finish wrap things up from this very strong vintage. Dave Brookes.

Henschke Keyneton Estate Euphonium Shiraz Cabernet Merlot Barossa 2021.