Interestingly, opinions among producers varied widely, even apropos the same vintage for the same region. These variances can be construed as different thinking as to what defines quality, particularly among contemporary producers seeking transparency, freshness and fidelity to place-given that place encompasses vintage characteristics-as opposed to larger brands striving for consistency of style.

These discrepancies, too, were more common when it came to hot years, which we are seeing more frequently.

In these instances, we have settled on a median rating. While there is bound to be some contention, we believe this to be an honest appraisal as possible, serving as solid guidelines for purchasing quality wine and when appropriate, cellaring it.

In addition to this, a point of interest is the growing awareness of what grows best where. It is sensible, thus, to deem the likes of Pemberton Pinot Noir as part of an overarching region. In this instance, Great Southern. While there are exceptional wines in such sub-regions and admittedly, Pinot Noir among them, many regions are increasingly far from varietally specific as global warming and more astute viticultural comprehension blur the lines of which we once thought as de rigueur.

The same can be said for Southern NSW Cabernet. Most producers outsource Cabernet (if they grow it at all), simply because it is virtually impossible to get this late-ripening cultivar to the point where appetising wine is possible.

Optimistically, the myriad challenges endemic to charts such as these reflect greater, more nuanced comprehension of regional specificity and greater degrees to which this specificity is appreciated on one hand; superlative, regional wines on the other.