Jerome Coessens is a farmer that has been producing his own Champagnes since 2006, although his family have been growing grapes for five generations. His Brut Nature is drawn from a 3.36 hectare monopole known as Largillier, hewn of limestone and clay on the Côte des Bar, a sub-zone in the south-east of the region. The Côte is contiguous to Chablis, a short distance farther south. It shares the same geology, meaning that instead of the friable chalk farther north in Champagne, the calcareous element is Kimmeridgian limestone, identical to the Grands Crus of Chablis. This imparts a saline mineral intensity, while the gentler southern climate facilitates greater ripeness of the grapes and an ensuing softness to the Champagne.

This is a bold expression of straight up Pinot Noir, with zero dosage. Think scents of red currant and strawberries and cream, along with a whiff of toasted brioche from the extended time spent on lees in bottle. There is no oak, allowing for versatility as an aperitif or synergy with a variety of foods. The world’s finest commentator on Champagne, Peter Liem, calls it a ‘fine introduction.’