Vivid, deep purple-crimson; this is a blue-blood aristocratic Shiraz, certain in its supreme power, length and balance, and not going out to prove anything. If anyone doubts its quality now, the scales will fall from their eyes over the decades ahead, as it will be recognised by all and sundry as one of the greatest Mount Edelstones. 98 points, Wine Companion.

Indulge yourself: A classic Henschke Eden Valley Shiraz. A gorgeous flow of velvety fruit in the mouth, perfect poise and balance, softness and finish. 96 points, Sydney Morning Herald & The Age, Melbourne, (11/2014).

I’ve always thought you can buy Hill of Grace and spend $700-and-something, or you can buy Mount Edelstone at $100-and-something, or whatever it is, and they are pretty much comparable in quality. Tasted them side by side on more than a few occasions and always a close-run thing; more a matter of preference than quality. So how’s the 2012 then? Well, the short answer is: it’s very good. Blackberry, blackcurrant, raspberry, spice, licorice, chocolate, smoky bacon, sage, mint, truffle and cedar – kind of the usual suspects for Mt Ed. though perhaps a little fresher and brighter – it’s a veritable smörgåsbord of flavours anyway, and I don’t think I’m being fanciful, because if you take your time and pay attention, there’s something new cropping up with every sniff and taste. Medium to full bodied, lashings of fine-grained powdery tannin and ripe but fresh mixed berry fruit with a briny, savoury edge. It’s a quiet storm of a wine, rolling through the mouth without too much noise and flashing, just confidently doing its thing without much of a care. Rumbles long into the distance after you swallow. As far as Mount Edelstones go, it’s a pretty bloody good one. Drink to 2042+ 96 points, Wine Front.