The Relic is absolutely singing this year. Shiraz from an east-facing vineyard in Krondorf, with the addition of 2% viognier in '22. It sports an insanely concentrated hue in the glass, with pure fruit aromas of plum compote, blueberry and black berry fruits. Layer upon layer of spice along with violets, jasmine, pippy raspberry nuance, dried citrus rind, roasting meats and turned earth. For all the wine's fruit density and intensity, it's got cut and a vivid minerality of line, sliding across the palate with impressive energy and verve, its tannins compact, akin to compressed quartz and graphite, and the finish is long, pure and true. Pitch-perfect architecture this year, with Dan's trademark balance and harmony writ large.

The Stadish Wine Company The Relic Single Vineyard 2022.

If you could drink this 2018 Astralis Syrah all day, by god you would. I mean, I would. The oak feels imperceptible, which I discover is adapted depending on the concentration of the year. This 2018 was matured in 40% new oak, and you wouldn’t know it. The tannins are chewy and pliable, and the fruit that resides within it is striking. A wine of poise. Clarity. Delicacy.

Clarendon Hills Astralis Syrah McLaren Vale 2018.

This is an ultra-stylish, well-made Graveyard with tightly coiled fruit and a serious demeanour. In fact, it would be easy to miss its greatness, especially alongside riper styles, if one wasn't paying attention. Quiet and reserved with a youthful crimson hue, the fruit is tensioned within an intricate matrix of acidity and tannin. With aeration, one sees exotic black cherry characters nestled within a dense, sculpted, savoury palate. It's a slender, majestic shiraz that has grace and restrained power. It will be an extremely long-living wine, and I can't wait to see how it transforms with time. One for the future.

Brokenwood Wines Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz Hunter Valley 2022.