From the 1979 plantings of P58 chardonnay from the Willowlake vineyard in Gladysdale. Like all the Oakridge 2020s, this was hand picked and whole-bunch pressed to French oak puncheons for fermentation and maturation. A very bright green gold. Excites from the first, with its aromas of white cut pears, stone fruits and an intriguing, perfectly handled flinty, freshly torched brûlée-top reduction. This has terrific drive and persistence on the palate, and the textured and layered mouth feel is balanced by the wine's perfectly integrated acidity.

You have to pinch yourself when considering that this is Leeuwin's second level chardie. Fact is, it's very good. The last couple of years have seen slightly more richness and palate intensity restored after dabbling briefly with a finer style. It's minerally with a spicy pear and nectarine character. The palate is layered and rich. This is as good an example of this wine as I have seen.

SEPPELT Jaluka Chardonnay, Henty 2019

Hand-picked, whole bunch-pressed, fermented in French oak (30% new) with batonnage. A very complex and layered wine, with white peach and grapefruit aromas and flavours interwoven with cashew/almond notes from the oak. The palate is intense and focused, with great drive and length.

VASSE FELIX Chardonnay, Margaret River 2022

While this does not hold back on the flavour front, it still has electrifying acidity and detail, as is the way with this producer. It’s flinty, citrusy, tangy and juicy with the palate full of grapefruit and white peach and texture via a slip of luscious lees and high-toned oak, which is superbly integrated. It’s a chardonnay that offers immediate pleasure without a second thought, and, yet, it lingers, it’s seductive, and you want to come back for more. So I did.

OAKRIDGE WINES Vineyard Series Willowlake Chardonnay, Yarra Valley 2020

From the 1979 plantings of P58 chardonnay from the Willowlake vineyard in Gladysdale. Like all the Oakridge 2020s, this was hand picked and whole-bunch pressed to French oak puncheons for fermentation and maturation. A very bright green gold. Excites from the first, with its aromas of white cut pears, stone fruits and an intriguing, perfectly handled flinty, freshly torched brûlée-top reduction. This has terrific drive and persistence on the palate, and the textured and layered mouth feel is balanced by the wine's perfectly integrated acidity.

LEEUWIN ESTATE Prelude Chardonnay, Margaret River 2022

A charming wine and one of the finest Prelude Vineyards releases to date. There's a fineness to this, subtly from the aromas and flavours to the palate.

FOXES ISLAND Belsham Awatere Estate Chardonnay, Marlborough 2016

Moderately intense chardonnay with grapefruit, white peach, green apple, caramel and baguette crust supported by vibrant acidity.