Langton’s Selection Moorilla Estate Reserve Pinot Noir “One kilometre long and almost as wide, its shape is not round, the isthmus is broad and the land rises up gently and then drops towards the river in steep banks covered by native casuarinas, the beautiful green-grey she-oaks which, in that area, have a round canopy instead of the more common pine-like shape.” So wrote Claudio Alcorso, something of a renaissance man, who founded Moorilla Estate in 1958. Moorilla is an Aboriginal word meaning ‘A rock by the water’ as the winery is located on the edge of the Derwent River. The wines have all been revamped in recent times to reflect a strong wine, art and tourism focus. The business was acquired by David Walsh and local partners during the 1990s. A museum of antiquities was later established. Further capital works have progressed resulting in an extraordinary cultural centre comprising a museum, performing arts centre, brewery, restaurant and boutique accommodation. It’s hard to know whether Moorilla Estate will ever reclaim a position in the secondary wine market as a mover and shaker. The wines are good, but inevitably the business, with its brilliantly conceived and strong commercial focus, has moved away from the highly stringed ultra-fine wine market. The batch vinified Muse Series is the current collection of wine (with naked bodies everywhere on the website). Andrew Caillard MW, Langton's