This is a new bottling for Chapel Hill, from a 0.8ha block of vines planted in '77 – the oldest estate vines – and carefully curated of late to produce a pinnacle bottling, presented in a hefty bottle. This is dense, deeply earthy, mulchy, anise-and-coffee-inflected wine, something crafted to reflect substance, gravitas. The oak is French, with a modest – for the ambition – 20% new timber, but likely the rest has seen only recent fills. It’s an impressive, intense, weighty and slightly heady affair with dark spices, moist tobacco and rum notes accenting the fruit. Although pegged back from the reserve styles of yore, this still feels in that mien.

The understated, etched front label declares 'House Block vines established 1977.' The oldest block of the estate, this 0.8 hectare vineyard has long been my favourite at Chapel Hill, painstakingly reworked over the past decade, and the result of its new incarnation is something to behold! 

This is a dramatic presentation of the dark side of McLaren Vale, leading out with pristine, glossy blackberry and black cherry fruit, fresh liquorice straps, and the signature black olives and iodine seaspray of the Vale. For all of its towering magnitude, I love its refined air and its distinguished, slender, upright lines, framed in fine-boned tannins that unite intricately polished fruit with stunning French oak, confidently declaring the talent of Michael Fragos and his team. 

The devil is evidently indeed in the detail! Drink 2030-2040. 

Tyson Stelzer. May 2024