Beautiful perfume on the nose, really fragrant and seductive, deep and heady but beguiling too. You get chunky, chewy fruit here - this is round, plump and filling a consequence of the slightly more Merlot in the blend than usual - opposed to more Cabernet seen elsewhere. It has a luscious appealing fruitiness then the austerity kicks in, with a vein of salinity and minerality, such a linear, quite strict middle where you get severity in the texture giving it some rigidity but you also have such great depth on the mid palate, the layers of fruit and spice that linger giving such a core of flavour. A sense of power, intensity and concentration but also with acidity keeping everything lifted. A stately wine with lots of potential. Pierre Graffeuille replaces Hervé Berland here, having arrived in March and taking over fully in October. 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend. 39% grand vin.

Georgina Hindle on the Château Montrose 2me Cru Classe, St-Estephe 2021

Fruit from a 1996-planted vineyard. Four weeks’ post-fermentation maceration, matured in French barriques (35% new) for 15 months. A saturated crimson purple. Always an interesting contrast between this and the original cabernet, which comes from older vines and a cooler site. A complete wine with aromas of blackcurrants, dark plum, cedar and subtle florals. Excellent concentration on the palate, which is wrapped around youthful, firm and long-chained tannins. A very long life ahead is ensured. Super wine.

Philip Rich on the Oakridge 864 Winery Block Cabernet Sauvignon Yarra Valley 2022.