Medium to deep ruby colour with purple tinges. The bouquet is oaky and pungent, with some camphor and mint-eucalypt forest overtones, the palate a bit rasping and astringent when first poured, with the flavours turning to polished leather, red fruits lurking largely obscured beneath. It needs time to mellow and soften. There is richness and concentration here, and a very long carry. (52% cabernet sauvignon, 24% merlot, 24% cabernet franc)

Tapanappa Whalebone Vineyard blend, Wrattonbully 2020

A blend of 45/30/17/6/2% cabernet sauvignon/merlot/cabernet franc/malbec/petit verdot. Fermented with whole berries and at different temperatures, depending on the variety. All varieties are matured in both barriques and 1600L foudres for 12 months then racked into barriques (35% new) for another 10 months before blending and bottling. A saturated purple-red. This is a special Quintet (and I don't say this lightly) from the first. Aromas of blackberries, blackcurrants, dark cherry skins and crushed violets. A whisper of pencil-shaving oak. An elegant, concentrated, pure and structured wine that will become even more special with time. As I was tasting it, Radiohead's opening track from Kid A came to mind. Everything in Its Right Place, indeed.

Mount Mary Quintet Yarra Valley 2021

Deep crimson in colour followed by a compact and concentrated unashamedly claret stye with structure, fruit focus and longevity keys to its success. Robust blackberry, blackcurrant fruits to start well supported by spicy oak, then building with mulberry and graphite nuances. The palate is then dry, firm, bright and concentrated retaining youthful vitality with ironstone laced berry fruits supported by a rich bed of grainy tannins, with dried herbs to finish. A muscular, strong armed vintage with dense fruit and structure, built for the long-term.

Tapanappa Whalebone Vineyard blend, Wrattonbully 2020