The 2022 Waitaki Vineyard Chardonnay is grown on limestone soils out in Waitaki. The fruit was picked in early May (as opposed to late March at higher Brix in Bannockburn.) "A totally different world," says owner Grant Taylor. On the nose, there's nashi pear, white peach, a little fresh crushed curry leaf and river stone, white tea and a hint of orange blossom/oil. In the mouth, the wine is viscose and almost oily and rolling in texture, with powerful fruit and kiwi fruit acidity. It's pure and crystalline in its fruit outlay. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

I loathe the comparison because, if you come to this place, it has no bearing on the comment I am about to make (and because comparisons are odious), but the comparison to Chablis here is unavoidable. The wine is loaded with crushed shells, sleek phenolics and pure/crystalline fruit. It is focused and unfettered, and I can understand how this wine has the cult attachment that it does. It's thrilling and so distinct. It's not Chablis; it's Waitaki.

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